The hottest table in Madrid is rough knotty pine, as thick as a barn door, tucked in a corner next to the kitchen entrance. On any given night, the restaurant’s popularity makes snaring any one of La Broche’s 15 ivory-covered tables quite a coup, but this rustic board is the Holy of Holies of the Spanish capital’s gastronomic scene. It is the chef’s table, where the chef, a flamboyant young Catalan named Sergi Arola, plays host to a few favored guests right in the kitchen itself.